Esgarraet is a traditional Valencian dish with a history that reflects the culinary customs of this Spanish region, where salted cod and local vegetables come together to create a simple yet flavorful recipe.
Esgarraet: A Traditional Valencian Recipe
What is Esgarraet?
Esgarraet is a traditional dish from the Valencian Community, particularly popular in the province of Valencia. This cold salad is known for its bold, intense flavors, created by the combination of simple yet highly flavorful ingredients.
The name “esgarraet” comes from the Valencian word esgarra, meaning “to tear” or “to shred,” which refers to the way the key ingredients – salted cod and roasted red peppers – are pulled apart or shredded.
The origins of esgarraet are rooted in the humble, rural traditions of the Valencian Community. In times before refrigeration, salted cod was a practical, long-lasting ingredient that could be easily stored, making it a staple for farmers and fishermen. Roasted red peppers, which were abundant in the region, were another key component of the dish, as they could be grown, harvested, and preserved with ease.
Esgarraet has evolved over time but remains a beloved dish in Valencian cuisine, especially in rural areas and during local festivals. Its popularity has spread beyond the region, and today, it is often served as a tapa or appetizer in many restaurants, cafes and bars of Valencia.
The dish’s combination of salty, smoky, and slightly sweet flavors, alongside a drizzle of olive oil and a hint of garlic, continues to capture the essence of traditional Valencian cooking.
About Salted Cod
Salted cod is one of the most traditional ingredients in Mediterranean cuisine. For centuries, salting was used to preserve fish before refrigeration, and the process also gives cod its characteristic firm texture and intense flavor.
In Spain, salted cod—known as bacalao—is used in countless traditional recipes, from stews and fritters to salads and tapas. It is particularly popular in dishes associated with Lent and Holy Week, although today it is enjoyed throughout the year.
For this Esgarraet recipe, I use salted cod crumbs, which pair beautifully with the sweetness of the roasted red peppers. The salty, savory flavor of the cod contrasts with the soft, slightly smoky peppers, while the garlic and olive oil bring everything together.
The combination is simple but incredibly flavorful. Served on crusty toasted bread, Esgarraet makes a perfect Valencian tapa or appetizer.
Ingredients
| Metric Amount | Imperial Amount | Core Ingredient | Preparation |
| 2 units | 2 units | Red peppers | Whole, washed |
| 100 g | 3.5 oz | Salted cod | Crums, desalted |
| 3 cloves | 3 cloves | Garlic | Finely chopped |
| 120 ml | 0.5 cup | Olive oil | Extra virgin |
Instructions
1. Roast the Peppers
Wash the red peppers and place them in a baking dish. Roast them at 180°C (350°F) for approximately 50 minutes, turning them occasionally so they cook evenly. They are ready when the skin has blistered and can be easily removed from the flesh.
2. Prepare the Ingredients
While the peppers are roasting, finely chop the garlic cloves with a knife. Once the peppers are cool enough to handle, peel them and remove the seeds. Cut the roasted pepper flesh into long strips.
3. Assemble the Esgarraet
Place the roasted pepper strips, chopped garlic, and salted cod crumbs in a bowl. Drizzle generously with the olive oil and mix gently until all the ingredients are well combined.
4. Let the Flavors Develop
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. This resting time allows the garlic, cod, roasted peppers, and olive oil to blend together and develop the characteristic flavor of the dish.
5. Serve
Serve the Esgarraet on slices of crusty bread, or plate it as a tapa with bread served alongside.
Chef’s Notes for Esgarraet
Why is the resting time in the refrigerator non-negotiable? The Esgarraet is not a dish to be served immediately. During those 4 hours of refrigeration, the cold temperature forces the salt from the cod to slowly infuse into the roasted peppers, while the garlic oils mellow and distribute throughout the olive oil. Without this maturation period, the ingredients remain distinct and lack the cohesive, savory depth that defines authentic Valencian cuisine.
How do I ensure the best texture for the roasted peppers? After roasting the peppers until the skin blisters, place them immediately into a bowl and cover it with plastic wrap while they are still hot. The trapped steam loosens the skin from the flesh, making it effortless to peel without damaging the tender strips. Never run them under cold water to peel them, as this washes away the charred, smoky flavor you worked so hard to develop.
Why are salted cod “crumbs” used instead of fillets? Salted cod crumbs are ideal for Esgarraet because they provide a uniform distribution of flavor and texture in every bite. When you use fillets, you have to break the fish apart, which can sometimes result in uneven, fibrous chunks. Using high-quality crumbs ensures that the cod integrates perfectly with the pepper strips, allowing you to achieve that ideal “land and sea” ratio on a single slice of bread.
Common Mistakes Cooking Esgarraet
Failing to properly desalt the cod. If you skip the necessary soaking time for the salt-cured cod, the final dish will be overwhelmingly salty and unpleasant. Ensure you rinse the crumbs under cold running water multiple times, or soak them in a bowl of fresh water for 30–60 minutes—tasting a small piece before assembling—to ensure the salinity is perfectly balanced for a salad.
Using low-quality oil. Since this recipe only has four ingredients, the quality of your olive oil is the defining factor of the final flavor profile. Using a generic, refined, or old oil will result in a flat, greasy dressing; you must use a high-quality, cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil to provide the grassy, peppery notes that elevate the sweet peppers and briny cod.
Over-processing the garlic. Using a garlic press or mincing the garlic into a paste can make the dish taste harsh and pungent. The garlic should be hand-chopped with a knife into small, uniform pieces. This allows the garlic to offer a subtle, aromatic crunch rather than overpowering the delicate balance of the fish and vegetables.
Cutting the peppers while they are still warm. If you slice the peppers into strips before they have cooled completely, the flesh will lose its structural integrity and turn into a mushy puree. Let the roasted peppers cool thoroughly to room temperature before peeling and cutting; this ensures the strips maintain their shape and provide that signature elegant appearance on the plate.
Variations on Esgarraet
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The Black Olive Garnish: For an added layer of saltiness and color contrast, toss a handful of pitted black Kalamata or Aragonese olives into the bowl before the final rest. The dark, oily saltiness of the olives bridges the gap between the cod and the peppers perfectly.
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The Roasted Garlic Infusion: If you prefer a smoother flavor profile, roast an entire head of garlic alongside the peppers. Squeeze the softened, sweet cloves into the olive oil before mixing; this creates a complex, creamy dressing that is far more mellow than raw, chopped garlic.
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The Citrus-Zest Brightener: Add a teaspoon of freshly grated orange zest to the dressing right before serving. The subtle floral notes of the orange skin complement the sweetness of the roasted peppers and bring a vibrant, coastal freshness that turns this traditional tapa into a modern, aromatic delight.
Recipe Card
Esgarraet
This Esgarraet recipe is a traditional Valencian tapa made with roasted red peppers, salted cod, garlic, and plenty of extra virgin olive oil. Simple, flavorful, and perfect served with crusty bread, this Mediterranean classic is an easy appetizer that gets even better after resting.
Ingredients
- 2 red peppers for roasting
- 100 g of salted cod crumbs
- 3 garlic cloves
- 1/2 cup of olive oil
Instructions
1. Roast the Peppers
Wash the red peppers and place them in a baking dish. Roast them at 180°C (350°F) for approximately 50 minutes, turning them occasionally so they cook evenly. They are ready when the skin has blistered and can be easily removed from the flesh.
2. Prepare the Ingredients
While the peppers are roasting, finely chop the garlic cloves with a knife. Once the peppers are cool enough to handle, peel them and remove the seeds. Cut the roasted pepper flesh into long strips.
3. Assemble the Esgarraet
Place the roasted pepper strips, chopped garlic, and salted cod crumbs in a bowl. Drizzle generously with the olive oil and mix gently until all the ingredients are well combined.
4. Let the Flavors Develop
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. This resting time allows the garlic, cod, roasted peppers, and olive oil to blend together and develop the characteristic flavor of the dish.
5. Serve
Serve the Esgarraet on slices of crusty bread, or plate it as a tapa with bread served alongside.
Notes
It is best to prepare it from one day to the next in order to let it rest and mix all the flavors. Be careful not to add salt, it comes with the salted cod.
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